Sunday, February 26, 2006

To Odessa via Transdniestria

UPDATE:
We didn't go through Transdniestria. The driver told me it would mean lots of problems and bribes and waiting at borders. I was a bit disappointed, mainly because I had promised some of you souvenirs and stories, but then realized this was probably for the best when I saw how annoying and corrupt even the Ukrainian border crossings were. We waited for about an hour as I watched people pay the officers to get by quicker. And then the dirver still had to pay about the equivalent of 6$ for "insurance."


After breakfast this morning with the businessman Moldovan cousin, Ilan, I'm getting a ride from Ilan's driver to Odessa. Originally, the plan was to take an old train over to Odessa, and this would have required me to sit on an uncomfortable wooden bench for 5 hours with no bathroom and probably lots of nasty smelling armpits in my face. A private ride and driver (for free!) is far better, and not only because it will be infinitely more comfortable, but because I will get to see Transdniestria, a country with its own currency, president, and police, which no one else in the world recognizes. Apparently the most direct route to Odessa from Kishinev goes through both Bendery and Tiraspol, the capital of the region. For some history and geography check out http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transdniestria. Transdniestria would rather be part of Russia than part of Moldova, and most of all it wants a return to the Soviet Union (apparently its the only region that hasn't changed much since the fall, preserving its Lenin monument, its Russian language, and it's street names).

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