Thursday, April 27, 2006

Lithuania Highlights

A very important Virgin Mary, whose canvas allegedly healed a boy who had fallen out of a window. Displayed in a cathedral in Vilnius.
People are said to have been planting crosses on
the Hill of the Crosses, near the city of Siauliai, since the 13th century. The Soviets bulldozed the crosses down, but every night people would sneak up and put new crosses up for martyrs, mosly victims fo the Soviet Occupation - those families sent to Siberia, political prisoners etc. People come here now from all over the world to add their crosses and to hang little crosses on the big crosses.























Me in front of Trakai Castle, from the time of the Teutonic Knights. It must have looked very different before its restoration in the 1950s. I'm not sure since the museum was on weekend the day we came, but I feel like only that bottom part survived.
We didn't get off at the right stop at Trakai and had to find out way back using this dandy hand written and obviously outdated posted bus schedule.
On the right is Nathan, my travel buddy for Lithuania (met him on the bus to Vilnius and he dragged me along to the coast since we were both eventually heading to Riga in a few days). Here we are in Juadkrante, a little fishing town on the Curonian Spit. We bought this freshly smoked fish out of someone's kitchen and she sat and ate it with us on her porch. She told me I spoke Russian like a gypsy. By that I think she meant I was obnoxious and spicy.






















These are the dunes I biked to today on the Curonian Spit, from the town of Nida, on the border with Kaliningrad. the Curonian Spit is a thin peice of land off of the Baltic coast of Lithuania. The northern half belongs to Lithuania and the Southern to Russia as part of Kaliningrad. The body of water here is called the Curonian Lagoon.

Friday, April 21, 2006

More Warsaw

Here's me. See mom and dad, I'm happy and well-fed, not lonely and starving! Peacocks roam free at the "Palace on the Water" in beautiful Lazienki Park. The park is full of green paths and topiary, and cute couples making out, reminding you that you are travelling alone for 5 months. In that same park there's a huge art-nouveau monument to Chopin (created in 1926) looking over a big fountain and pool with lots of benches and grass all around. Apparently they hold Chopin concerts here every weekend in the summer. I also visited the final resting place of Chopin's heart. Yup, it's preserved in a pillar of one of the churches in the town center. It was fun to remember the days when I played piano and was obsessed with Chopin.Remote controls to your heart's desire at the super shady (and I don't mean there are lots of trres) and very large "Russian Market" on the other bank of the Vistula River in Warsaw.

Beautiful Houses in Warsaw

Houses I would live in:
Warsaw's Old Town, full of beautiful 17th and 18th century architecture, was completely destroyed in WWII and completely rebuilt and reconstructed (meant to look exactly as it did 300 years ago) in the 70s and 80s. It's really spectacular and I guess that's why it's on Unesco's World Heritage List. The first and third photos are of houses rebuilt in the Old Town. The second is taken from inside the Old Town out and the last Bauhaus-style one is in a more modern section of the city.





Nowa Huta





Nowa Huta, now a suburb of Krakow, is one of only two fully realized, built from scratch, socialist industrial cities (the other is Magnitogorsk in Russia). Read more about it at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nowa_Huta. I visited it when I was in Krakow last week and didn't think it looked all that different from parts of Kishinev, Odessa, and Kiev. The coolest part about the Nowa Huta story, though, is that the Polish people resisted the planned socialist community and Nowa Huta became a center for the solidarity movement. People protested to build a church there - for two decades - a goal which was finally realized in 1977 when The Church of Our Lady Queen of Poland was opened and consecrated by archbishop Karol Wojtyla, Pope John Paul II to be.

Sunday, April 16, 2006

Krakow is Wonderful

I really love this city. It's beautiful, walkable, and has a laid back hip night life (centered in none other than Kazimierz, the Old Jewish Quarter). This would be a great place to be a student, or an ex-pat. Don't have all that much to say except that it's a really pleasant place so here's a little photo essay.

1. Food: I've mostly stayed away from meat and grease-heavy Polish fare since this city has a fair amount of tasty vegetarian restaurants and pubs with lots of good food. But at the outdoor market on Good Friday I did discover an amazing Polish snack. They smoke young cheese (its the squeeky curd-like kind) and form it into these cool shapes and you can get the little ones grilled and warm and eat them right there or take the massive shapes home (yup, those are all cheese) and I don't know what they do with them but I assume they slice and eat them tasty things. I don't know how anyone could ever eat more than one in a sitting though. Fried cheese is some serious stuff and they seem to love it in all sorts of variations in this central-eastern part of Europe (Budapest and Prague had a lot of breaded and fried cheese). Serious artery clogging potential.




2. The Jewish quarter: deserted synogogues and yuppy cafes by day, hipster (loosely defined) hang out by night. The terrace pubs in the first photo face the old Jewish market square where you could pick up your freshly killed chickens and such items in the 1930s (the museum in one of the 5 or so synogogues in the neghborhood has a lot of awesome documentary footage). Below: Three pubs in a row facing what's probably the most beautiful synagogue in Poland (after renovations were completed in 2001), the Tempel synogogue.Below: The gate to the Old Synagogue. There's only 100 Jews left living in the district, which was clearly one of the largest communities in Eastern Europe before the war.

3. The Old Town Square and Wawel Castle. Thankfully most of these building survived WWII.

Thursday, April 13, 2006

Prague, for the second time around

Prague feels distincly unlike Eastern Europe. Everyone here speaks English and its rare for a restaurant or bar not to have an English language menu. The city is over-run with tourists, and unfortunately their constant presence hovers over Prague's charm. Only late at night when they go to bed does its beauty come out. Its a tiny place and the presence of large groups of people seems to ruin it. I find myself constantly trying to block out the crowds in my field of vision. Still, the city is a beautiful place and purely on an architectural and artistic level, it impressed me just as much on this visit as it did on my last.

Something I've noticed is that prices for beer are at least 25 percent higher than they were when I visited 3 vears ago, though it's still only a little over a dollar for your average pint of tasty stuff. I came to Prague to meet up with some good college friends who decided to converge in Prague for a few days, all of them spending this year in different parts of the world. It was great to see my buddies of course, but I also realized that I see a lot less when I travel with others (it was totally fine since Id already seen Prague once before). I think seeing more on your own is natural, but Im also starting to think that I might have an unnaturally obsessive and goal-oriented attitude towards seeing everything on my list and visiting interesting local bars and restaurants. I felt the same way in Budapest when my Moldova Peace Corp friends came to visit for a day. My style seems to work for me, but I might need to learn to chill out when around others (except for when I travel with my brother - I think he might be as happily obsessive as I am about these things :) )

Anyway, Ill show you all some photos and stop the self-reflection. (Im at a winebar with internet, which I think is the greatest idea.).

1. View of Prague. The spires are St.Vitus Cathedral, the beautiful French Gothic church in Prague Castle which started being built in the 1čth century and was finished only in 1949.

2. View of Prague, taken from northeast of Castle hill.

3. Ballgames court in the Royal Gardens where important people apparently played tennis and the like in Prague's Golden age.
4. View of West side of Prague across Vlata river taken from Manesov Most bridge.

5. Strahov monastic library, built in 1649. Not SO different from Harvard's most beautiful, aside from the amazing fresco- covered ceiling of course. 6. My favorite Prague bar. The orange woman is blowing bubbles to those entereing the pub. Quite pleasant. She is wearing a shirt by the way. An orange fishnet type thing. Anna and Steve are having fun with Czech coasters.

Thursday, April 06, 2006

Tourist in Budapest

In Budapest now for the beginning of my month of being a straight up tourist. I spent my first half day here recovering from my Matt vacation in Kiev and the subsequent Matt-leaving-Im-all-alone-again feeling sorry for myself. The woman Im staying with on the outskirts of town (contact through an interviewee/now friend in Kiev) is really sweet and the neighborhood she lives in has little cottages with gardens and looks like its in a cute rural village. The ride into town is relatively long(40 min) , but public transportation is convenient and nice and I wouldnt give up the great set up for a faster trip into town.
Yesterday I saw the huge synogogue (second biggest in the world) and it was truly spectacular. I was really impressed. In the morning I wandered around Pest, saw Heroes Sq. and environs, rode the oldest subway on continental Europe, and then went to the market and picked up a very tasty (salty and spicy flavors Ive been missing!) bean stew and "small" cup of wine, the combination of which incapacitated me completely. So I decided to go take a bath at the famous Gellart Furdo (pictured below). After digesting in the thermal baths I walked over the bridge nearby back to the trendy Soho-like area of Pest around Raday Utca and hopped around to some cafes before heading back to the outskirts at night. The Danube, as you can see below, is very close to flooding. Margarita Island in the center is already off limits to people and apparently lots of central Europe is suffering from huge floods. Aside from the riverside promenades on both sides of the river (all now under water) and the island in the center, in Budapest there doesnt seem to be too much other damage.
Tomorrows my birthday as some of you know and Ive decided to treat myself by taking a day trip to Eger, the city known for its tasty "Bulls Blood" red wine. I hope the spend the day cellar hopping and tipsy. And Saturday Adam, my Peace Corp buddy from Kishinev, is coming into town with a few friends for a Buddhist lecture (Lama Ole) and Im joining them for that and the rest of the evening. It will be nice to see a familiar face.